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Weingut Richard Tauber Kerner 2022

Weingut Richard Tauber Kerner 2022


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Richard Tauber quit his day job in 2013 following a successful career in milk. That's right. From the dairy sector to the wine business. What could possibly go wrong?

But all that time around the cleanliness and precision needed for pasturization informed Richard well. His winery, a 500 square foot marvel in a small collection of buildings underneath an apartment complex on the outskirts of Brixen (Bressanone in Italian), defies logic. As we first approached the address he gave me, I thought here was no way we could be in the right place. This could have been one of those little strip malls where you drop off your dry cleaning, get your nails done, or order a pizza for takeout. What was going on here?

Pure magic, that's what. 

Anyone wishing to pursue a winery project should only look to Richard, and how to do it small, and do it right. Our kind of guy. He farms 5 steep (like, REALLY steep) parcels near Brixen, on such a grade that the work cannot be done by tractor, only on foot. There are just about 4 total acres of vines. 

He claims he spends 80% of his year among his vines, a splendid collection of Riesling, Sylvaner, and the local Kerner--and the rest dedicated to making flawless wine, getting it into bottle, then hoping some dude like me will eventually come around.

And that's how it came to pass that along with a couple Cru deep divers, we ended up around a table in the "suburbs" of Brixen, with 3 scintillating white wines in our glasses, and Richard Tauber not doing much other than slicing really good ham off a gorgeous Berkel slicer to go along. It was perfect, and even though I don't often do this, I asked Richard to buy some wine on the spot. His smile said it all.

"You're eating all my ham. I guess I have to!"

Kerner 2022--If Sylvaner was the reason I came to this part of the Sudtirol, Kerner is why I will go back. A perfectly suited frost resistant variety that is often grown in marginal climates. It is a cross between Riesling and Vernatsch (Schiava in Italian) and is named after the German poet Julius (Justinus) Kerner--who gave us the first detailed description of botulism (fun fact). Grown at 700 meters (2200 feet) and harvested late in the season, this beauty is pure aromatic fireworks--white peaches, yellow plums, ginger--all kinds of goodies leaping from the glass. And then again, a fresh aciidty and a bone dry finish makes this beauty versatile for anything you're cooking.


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