Mas Karolina L'Enverre Rouge 2017
A June 2019 Cellar Cru Selection
Caroline Bonville comes from a well-known Champagne producing family, but grew up in Bordeaux. Mother, father, and sister all remain in the wine business in one of the two places, but not her. Instead, Caroline put down roots and chose to raise her family in the Roussillon, the deep south of France, in the face of the majestic Pyrenées, and not far from Spain.
This is grape-growing wild style in this part of France. There's extreme heat, no water, no other vegetation, and very few other wineries. It's no surprise villages like Maury, Rivesaltes, St. Paul, and Thuir hardly even register on the wine map. But that doesn't bother Caroline. She goes about her business with intensity and a dash of audactiy. She knows well that growing wine would be eaiser somewhere else, but the reward not as great.
I watched her "work the room" at a local restaurant in Maury this past year and came to understand her motivation. At once she held a deep conversation with the manager about balancing life and work, all the while entertaining a raucous group of rugby players with one bawdy story or another. Its the all too necessary mindset in this hardened part of France and her wines reflect their maker at the end of the day. That's all we can ask for.
Here we have a winemakers' blend of old vine Carignane and Grenache, all from the schiste-strewn vineyards of Maury, and from vines of between 50-90 years old. L'Enverre is a play on words that means "upside down"--the condition you'll find your glass as try to get every last drop onto your tongue. This is a saturated, instense, almost black/purple wine guaranteed to stain the teeth a little.
Hearty and powerful wines mixed with intellectual elegance. Our kind of recipe!