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Devoy Martine Lirac Circius 2013 Image

Devoy Martine Lirac Circius 2013

I visted Veronique Lombardo on an unusually cool day this past August and her father was in a heated negotiation with the local tire dealer about a tractor wheel problem. He was not taking no for an answer and eventually got the tire replaced but also got the dealer to promise them free lobsters for their New Year's dinner.

I love this story because it speaks to the organized chaos that's happening at Devoy-Martine. The winery is a ramshackle of hoses, tubes, tanks, barrels, and other equipment. But once in the bottle Veronique's wine is all class--polished, pure, and delightful.

Lirac is an appellation I would call the most southern of the southern Rhone. As such this is a quite warm, roasted climate that yields wines that are succulent, ripe, and concentrated. You'll enjoy this one with a nice beef stew, but probably not with lobster.

The highest point of the domain is planted on sculpted terraces where the roundish pebbles make the soil barely visible. This is where the Grenache variety is planted which gives the wines their structure and the Syrah for its ruby colour and its incomparable red fruity taste. The whims of erosion have cut away the crest revealing a soil composed of marl and ancient sands. It is in this lower area that the Cinsault and Mourvèdre varieties are located. The Cinsault for its bouquet, its finesse and its marvelous flowery aromas. The Mourvèdre for its high aging potential and the spices.

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