It has been almost five years since I first connected with Emmanuel Rouquette. I was pointed his way by another vigneron in this beautiful part of France called La Charité-sur-Loire. I can be pretty confident that no one really knows about this place. So when I explained what we do at Cru they told me straight away to go see Emmanuel. There was no one better in the area.

This is where the Loire meets Burgundy. The Cotes-de-la-Charité is one of tiniest appellations in France and only received its appellation status in 2009. Previously all the wines were simply Vin de Pays. But what I discovered in Emmanuel's cellar were finely tuned, multi-dimensional examples of fine wine--Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay, and this exceptional Pinot Noir.

This is Emmanuel's only sparkler--a glorious example of Pinot Noir Rosé that I recently tasted at the Coq au Poule Noir in nearby Charité-sur-Loire. Even as a single diner the bottle disappeared way too easily, alongside a wonderful roasted chicken with some spring morels. Yum.

I'm becoming a real fan of this part of the Loire, an area technically influenced by the river of that name that runs through it, yet feels and looks just like Burgundy. There's a lot of granite and schiste here that give all his wines much needed depth and complexity.

You'll be back for more, I bet. I know we will!