Comalats Cabernet/Syrah Esparver 2017
In 1989 Jaume Bonet decided to replant his family's entire vineyard. But he did it in an unusual way--entirely to one grape variety--Cabernet Sauvignon. His decision was risky but over lunch recently he told me he was never worried. He thought he had it right from the beginning.
And he did.
Over 25 years later the Bonet vineyard in the far outreaches of the Costers del Segre, northern Spain in the beginnings of the Pyrenees foothills, is to my mind the jewel of the whole appellation. Divided among four parcels, the Bonet vines are farmed organically (and always have been), are filled with life, and yield pure and magnificent grapes. If you believe in this sort of thing, the positive energy here tacks off the charts.
From 1992 through 2005 Jaume made only one wine from his vines--a Reserva Cabernet that he aged in oak for one year then held back for another two before introducing to the market. But in 2006, during the beginning of Spain's economic crisis, Jaume decided to stop making the Reserva and instead concentrate on a more youthful, expressive, juicier style to take to market. The decision also coincided with his two youngest children entering the business--Eloi to manage the vineyards, and daughter Eva to run the winery and commerce.
And this in 2017, nearly 30 years later, the Bonet family introduces a new wine to market--by blending young Syrah vines with their now grown up Cabernet. The wine is named for a small local sparrow that enjoyed feasting on the juicy Syrah last fall as they became fully ripened. Grown on a sandy granite soil, this bottle is mouth watering from the first sniff and sip. You will be back for more!