Comalats Cabernet Reserva 2005
In 1989 Jaume Bonet decided to replant his family's entire vineyard. But he did it in an unusual way--entirely to one grape variety--Cabernet Sauvignon. His decision was risky but over lunch recently he told me he was never worried. He thought he had it right from the beginning.
And he did.
Over 25 years later the Bonet vineyard in the far outreaches of the Costers del Segre, northern Spain in the beginnings of the Pyrenees foothills, is to my mind the jewel of the whole appellation. Divided among four parcels, the Bonet vines are farmed organically (and always have been), are filled with life, and yield pure and magnificent grapes. If you believe in this sort of thing, the positive energy here tacks off the charts.
From 1992 through 2005 Jaume made only one wine from his vines--a Reserva Cabernet that he aged in oak for one year then held back for another two before introducing to the market. But in 2006, during the beginning of Spain's economic crisis, Jaume decided to stop making the Reserva and instead concentrate on a more youthful, expressive, juicier style to take to market. The decision also coincided with his two youngest children entering the business--Eloi to manage the vineyards, and daughter Eva to run the winery and commerce.
The 2005 Reserva was the last wine ever made in the old style--and it was magnficent. A "vintage of the century" as many put it at the time, yiedling 25000 bottles of structured, powerful, commanding Cabernet that today tastes as if its only 3 years old.
So imagine my surprise to find out that some of this remarkable wine remained available, and if we'd like some, yes, it could be done. Over the same lunch we agreed on a quantity and a price (a too low price IMO), and we now have some decade old Spanish Reserve Cabernet en route. What fun.
This is a nice opportunity to grab something rare and special without breaking the bank.